So a while back, I was watching this video of Ryan Cleckner setting up a scope on a Remington 700:
I thought that was a neat trick with the wood cheek riser. It stuck with me. When I threw together the “assassins kit in pretty much every action movie in the 80s” as commenter Michael put it, I noticed that the while the iron sights on the 10/22 are naturally where my eyes sit when I have a good cheek weld, the scope is…well it’s a little high.
Okay so maybe it’s a lot high. I don’t know what the hell I’m doing as far as precision rifle shooting (yeah yeah it’s a .22lr–but fundamentals are fundamentals) so I’ve been trying to educate myself. In the Magpul Precision Rifle, the instructor says that the pressure your cheek puts on the stock of the rifle is “about like you’d do if you were going to sleep.” I had to move up enough to get my eye lined up with the scope that my chin was barely on the stock. That can’t be good for consistency.
I may not know what I’m doing, but Ryan Cleckner does. So I copied him. I bought an Allen Company Buttstock Shell Holder and Pouch because it looks a whole helluva lot like the one he uses.
And then I pretty much did exactly what he described:
First I started off with a couple of pieces of 1″ thick (actual) decking that were seven or so inches long and a wood shim. I didn’t want to carve on something all day.
Then I put the pieces on the stock by sliding them underneath the pouch. I didn’t really get a good picture of that but you get the idea:
The short piece of decking was a little too short:
And the longer one was just a wee bit too short:
But the combo of the short decking and the shim was about as perfect as can be:
And with the pad on, you can see how closely it lines up:
So with that all figured out, it was time to…*dramatic pause*…drill into the stock of my brand new gun.
First I put pilot holes in the shim where I was going to eventually put the nails.
Then, I taped the shim in place on the stock:
And then drilled the holes.
Now the above picture is a little deceiving. The line down the top of the stock is not actually a centerline. It’s just where the paint dip stopped..
With the holes drilled, i put the nails back in and glued the two pieces together. Elmer’s wood glue, clamped overnight, because an old carpenter told me to do that and old dudes know stuff so i listen to them:
After that? Press it in and cinch down the pouch. Easy Peasy!
I’ll do the same thing on my 700 after I get my scope mounted.
This is the workshop that came with the house we bought last year.
Is there any reason why I shouldn’t put plywood over the insulation on the ceiling and replace the hanging 8ft fluorescent fixtures with ceiling mounted 4ft ones?
I picked up a Dewalt DW715 12-Inch Compound Miter saw during a Black Friday sale. I’ve been doing some furniture building and figured it would come in handy.
It’s so pretty…
See that little bag on the back? That’s ostensibly for dust collection. I may have been expecting too much out of it, but after my first dozen or so cuts on a set of 2x4s I went to empty the bag and there wasn’t anything in it. There was plenty of dust in the air and around the saw, though. So I decided to just hook up my shop vac to the dust port. Should be easy, right?
I did a little bit of Googling and found a woodworkers’ forum where someone said the dust collection port was 1.5″, so a 1.5″ vacuum hose should work. Well my shop vac has a 2.5″ hose so I just bought this without really paying attention to the description. Key bit: Use 1 1/2-inch hose with 2 1/2-inch accessories.
Not exactly what I was looking for…
So I go to the home improvement store and pick up a Shop-vac 2-1/2″ to 1-1/4″ Conversion Unit. You might notice that it’s a 1.25″ adapter, not a 1.5″ adapter. Apparently, those are not made, but I figure it may fit the inside diameter of the Dewalt port. While I’m there, I also pick up a Shop-vac Universal Tool Adapter, because, hey, “Universal.”
So here’s the 1.25″ adapter:
Hotdog. Hallway. You get the picture.
Yeah….that’s not gonna work.
And here’s the “Universal” adapter:
Universal….between shop-vac brand accessories.
Same problem, but different.
So now I’m getting a little bit frustrated. The next time I go to the store (we were doing a bathroom remodel so I was at Lowe’s or Home Depot like every 6 hours for a month), I pick up a 1.5-Inch Contractor Hose I’ll spare you the suspense and tell you now–that didn’t work either. The inside diameter of the hose was not large enough to fit over the dust port, and the outside diameter of the hose was too large to reliably use a coupler.
At this point I’m just trying shit. Clearly it’s not a 1.5″ port. Or 1.5″ hoses aren’t 1.5″ ID or OD.
I go order a 1.25-Inch hose. The wand on the end is comically large, but it fits. Sort of:
Do you see the problem?
The dust port is actually in the arm of the saw, so it rotates. When the saw is all the way up, the wand can fall back. When you go to use the saw again, this can happen:
That would make for an exciting time.
So now I do what I should have done in the beginning:
Did I say inch and a half? I meant inch and twenty-one thirty-seconds. My bad.
And the inside diameter:
Or maybe I meant inch and three eighths.
I take my calipers to the store, go to the plumbing aisle, discover that 1.5″ PVC Pipe fittings have an inside diameter of about 1.66″ to accommodate wall thickness. I buy a 1.25″ Schedule 40 male adapter, a 1.5″ x 1.25″ male adapter, and a 1.25″ slip coupler. I figure I can use one of my hoses with the male adapters, and just use some 1.25″ PVC pipe if I really need to.
Well. It turns out…
If you take the wand off the 1.25-Inch hose, the end of the hose fits perfectly in the 1.25″ slip coupler.*
This is not the wand you’re looking for.
The corrugated end even fits over the ridge in the middle to keep it in place!
And the good news, of course, is that I’ll never need another adapter again. I already have them all.
Gotta catch em all
*The original version of this post incorrectly stated that a 1.5″ coupler was used. This is what I get for hitting publish before checking my receipts.
Lokidude over at Erin’s new side project Blue Collar Prepping has a pretty good basic run down on keeping knives sharp. It’s best to sharpen your knives long before you think they need it, but, unless you’re obsessive about it, this doesn’t always happen. This is especially true of kitchen knives, which probably see more “hard core” work than 90% of the EDC or pocket knives out there.
My mom has a few hand made kitchen knives that were either given to her by or inherited from her parents. Like many hand made knives on the market, these were made from old saw blades which, while are excellent at taking and keeping an edge, are prone to rusting. She also has a few higher end factory made knives, whose metal has similar properties.
For those that don’t know, for a knife to have good edge retention, you need a harder steel. Generally, this is done by having a higher carbon content, which is also means that the metal is more prone to corrosion/rust. Chromium and other softer metals can be added to add resistance, but makes for a softer steel. So, you have the choice of good corrosion resistance, but soft steel that doesn’t hold an edge well (most of your cheaper knives) or knives that hold their edge well, but will corrode easily. This is a gross oversimplification, but generally works.
This is one of my mom’s hand made knives. You can probably tell me how much she was taking care of her knives. At least I don’t think she threw them in the dishwasher.
That ain’t polished wood
To make it worse, she, like many people, kept her kitchen knives lose in a drawer next to her silverware so they rattled together when you opened or closed the drawer. There’s very little that will cause a knife to get duller faster than to do this. So, first thing to do was get her a knife block.
You can get a traditional knife block that has holes cut for the various knives. While these make look great, they only really work if you have knives of the shape and size of the holes that were cut. You can also get drawer dividers that are designed to hold kitchen knives. The problem with them is that people like my mom will be tempted to throw other stuff on top of them… which defeats the point. We went with this block, which is full of plastic rods that make way for the knives, but hold them firm. The design does a good job of holding a couple or many knives, and you don’t have to find a slot the proper size.
Now that a proper home for the knives has been found, it’s time to recondition the knives back to usable condition. The first thing to tackle is the rust. Fortunately, with my mom’s knives, even though there was a lot of it, it was almost completely surface rust. I’ve used a paper towel and some rubbing compound from an auto shop before, but the best thing I’ve found to deal with it is a rust eraser like this one. Unfortunately, unlike the knife block which can be found pretty much anywhere that sells kitchen supplies, I’ve pretty much only seen these things sold at the odd gun show or, oddly enough, Lodge cast iron cooking ware outlets. They’re basically sticks of rubber impregnated with a rubbing compound. After maybe a minute of solid polishing using it on the same knife in the picture above, I had this result:
Is it perfectly polished? nope, but it’s gone from something my mom was asking if she should just throw out to something that’s usable. Well, it’s still needing to be sharpened unless you’re ok with it only cutting brie.
How to sharpen a knife would take an entire post on it’s own, so I’ll just hit the high points. As a knife geek, I’ve got a lot of sharpening equipment, but I pretty much used two things to sharpen these knives to near razor sharp. Bouncing around a drawer and the rusting did a number on the edges, so first thing to do is get rid of the nicks on the blade. This pretty much requires a steel to do. My sister gave me this sharpener for Christmas. While it’s nice that you can adjust the angles, it has the same issue that most of these style sharpeners have. It has the carbide, which is great for initial edge shaping, and fine ceramic, which is great for final honing, but nothing in between. I used this to reset the edge and smooth out the nicks.
After that, I used a tri-stone set up to put a proper edge on the knife. Free hand sharpening may seem intimidating at first, but it’s given me the best results and isn’t that difficult as long as you’re patient and practice a bit.
After sharpening, the last thing is oiling the knife to prevent further corrosion. For things like kitchen knives, I prefer either olive oil or mineral oil. Both are food grade safe, and will last a fairly long time. Olive oil is a great choice since it’s a fairly common staple of kitchens already, and therefor will be handy when it comes time to re-apply.
With her flowery pillow.
/me is watching Leverage on Netflix wearing headphones, while Naienko is watching the Olympics on the TV.
me: Oh… of course he’s in this show for at least an episode
Naienko: Mark Sheppard?
me: Didn’t even have to look, did you?
Naienko: nope! Who else would you be talking about?
Seriously, that man is in *everything*.
In my previous post, I mentioned that I had ordered a combination rifle case and shooting mat to go with my new boltie. Well, it’s here, and it’s awesome.
Back when I did Appleseed a couple of years ago, I didn’t have a shooting mat so I just used an old comforter. By lunch the first day I new I was going to have a problem. By the end of day two, I had a bruise where my ribs were contacting the concrete.
I needed a new case to go with my new rifle anyway, and I just happened to find this VISM shooting mat/case combo. Now, I had never heard of VISM before, but apparently they’re a division of NcStar which is not known for it’s quality and they’ve been around for years. I saw one in person at a gun show the day I bought the rifle, and after a couple of days decided to go ahead and get it. I figured the worst case scenario would be that I’d have a $65 soft rifle case.
Now, I haven’t laid on it for 6 hours straight, but my initial thoughts are that this thing is fantastic. It’s a rifle case! It’s a shooting mat! It’s a backpack! It’s a drag bag!
There’s so much going on with this that I’ve got a ton of pics. The Amazon and manufacturers descriptions really don’t do it justice.
Continue reading Initial thoughts: VISM Shooting Mat/Rifle Case combo
A police Sgt. in Japan is in trouble for making his junior officers eat too many burgers.
Why can’t we have those kinds of abuse of power stories here in the states?
Over the holidays I sold the FDE Magpul Fanboy AR I built last year. The plan was to take the money from that sale and put it towards an AAC MPW 9″ AR factory SBR. Look at the parts on that puppy and tell me it’s not worth it. It’s a great rifle at a great price.
Talking about my plans with several people, I decided to go in a different direction:
That’s a .308 Remington 700 AAC-SD. I’ve basically been talking about getting a 700 in 308 since Clinton was President, and since I have a .30 caliber suppressor I’ve been eyeing this one for a while.
Mmmmm…..Factory Threaded Barrel
When these first came out, they came from the factory with an AAC Blackout flash hider/suppressor adapter. I don’t think they’ve come like that for a while, but I didn’t really notice it until a few weeks ago.
Astute readers may remember that my friend James has an older version of this rifle and that I was disappointed in the trigger. I’m not sure if his has this, but the newer ones have an adjustable trigger from the factory.
That hex screw adjusts the trigger weight.
It’s going to be a little while before I actually get this out to a range. I’ve already ordered the YHM Brake that fits my suppressor, a cheek rest, and this soft case/shooting mat combo, but I still need a scope mount, good rings, and a decent scope. I’ve set about a $600 budget for all of those things and may decide that I need a gunsmith to install the mount because it may require bedding.
I’m looking forward to getting it all set up. This is a new discipline for me, Appleseed notwithstanding.
So Franklin Police roll up on a Brent Rose, passed out behind the wheel of his car parked in the turn lane of a major thoroughfare with the engine running. When he gets out, he falls into the bushes. He blows twice the legal limit on a breathalyzer, and the officers opt not to give him a field sobriety test because they’re scared he’ll fall down and hurt himself.
When questioned, Rose tells them that he went and got drunk at one bar then drove to another, where he doesn’t remember much after that. Officers also find a 32 ounce cup full of alcohol in one of his cup holders.
Instead of arresting him, the officers called a friend and let him go.
You see, Brent Rose’s day job was up until that point being a DUI Enforcement Officer with the Franklin Police Department. That makes all this just a stupid mistake instead of the serious crime with life-altering consequences if it were one of us.